In summary of the points below climb as if the rope was not there, do not use it until absolutely necessary. Do not weight the rope and damage the rock.

Southern Sandstone is a very delicate rock and there will never be a set of rules stringent enough to protect the rock indefinately.

(1) Make sure that if you are setting up a top rope that the top krab hangs free over the edge. On some climbs this means it hangs half way down the climb, so the top can be either unprotected or risk a high fall. A climb like Cunjorur at Bowles is such a climb. The lip is 3m off the ground, thus the top 6m of climbing is unprotected. So a top rope here is useless, just solo it. If you are unwilling to solo it then go do another climb.

(2) NEVER ever carve names into the rock. The number of Y2K carvings that appeared was totally irresponsible. Also the little f*cker who carved a dick into under rocks should be shot!!

(3) NEVER alter holds. Even if the wall is blank, DO NOT chip holds to make it climbable by you. Instead go put the effort in and train like the top climbers do.

(4) NEVER abseil. Even when on an isolated boulder, instead solo down. When abseiling you can unknowingly damage holds, also you damage the rock when pulling the ropes through.

(5) NEVER lower off. Even when on an isolated boulder, instead solo down. Lowering off puts weight on the rope and top of the crag thus damaging it. Also you can kick off holds during your descent.

(6) Only use chalk when it is absolutely necessary, and if so use it sparingly DO NOT cover every inch of the rock with it. We can see no reason for anyone to use it on climbs easier than say 5c, even if they are Mr or Mrs McSweaty. Also chalk does not make foot holds better, it just makes them worse by adding a layer of dust. So DO NOT chalk up foot holds.

(7) NEVER use poff or resin. It may harden and help protect the rock a little, but it also polishes and thus ruins the holds anyway.

(8) If you cannot do a climb, DO NOT sit around on the rope trying the move over and over ago on a tight rope. When you fall off go back to the ground and start again. Continually weighting the rope will damage the top of the crag.

(9) Soloing is by far the best way to climb these rocks. But if you have to use a rope make sure it stays slack.

(10) If you see someone damaging the rock it is your responsibility as a climber to ask them to stop.

The gist of the current guidelines in the climbers club guide

(1) Only attempt climbs where you have adequate equipment to set them up properly and not damage the rock.

(2) The krab must hang over the edge of the crag, thus preventing moving ropes contacting the rock. Even if this means having the krab half way down the face.

(3) The slings used to extend the krab over the edge have to be non stretch so they don't damage the rock when loaded.

(4) If there is some unavoidable sideways movement on the sling, then use something to protect the top of the crag, ie. a piece of carpet.

(5) Use the bolts at the top of the crag with slings and krabs, NEVER thread the rope directly through them.

(6) NEVER allow moving ropes to contact trees, it will kill them.

(7) Only use trees if there is no better alternative. Make sure that the tree is alive and the force on it is minimised by keeping the sling low.

(8) DO NOT cut down trees what ever the reason.

(9) DO NOT use herbicided for clearing vegetation from the rock. The vegetation will grow back, but minus the rarer species.

(10) Top-roping and soloing are the acceptable methods of climbing. DO NOT use any form of protection, they will cause you and the rock damage.

(11) Only use soft soled shoes, not heavy walking boot types.

(12) DO NOT abseil, your feet will kick off holds, and the rope will damage the bolt and rock when it is pulled through.

(13) DO NOT lower off after completing a climb. For the same reasons as number 12.

(14) Soloing is the only way of reaching the top of and descending isolated buttresses. NEVER ever under any circumstances throw the rope over the boulder, this is especially important with the Hut Boulder at High Rocks. This practice is totally ruining the rock.

(15) DO NOT aid climb.

(16) NEVER blow torch the holds.

(17) NEVER chip or alter holds, you risk having your thumbs broken by locals.

(18) Only use soft brushes or cloths to clean the rock, NEVER use wire brushes.

(19) When the rock is wet treat the rock gently, it is much more friable when wet. The sandstone in the Czech republic is closed when it is wet.

(20) Stick to footpaths and avoid excess erosion of the ground around the crag. When bouldering try to use a mat to stop holes appearing in the ground.

(21) DO NOT ride mountian bikes at the crags.

(22) Don't camp, light fires, play radios, make excessive noise, litter, or smash bottles. The glass under parisian affair at eridge f*cked up my shoes!!

(23) Switch mobile phones off.

(24) Keep dogs under control and clear up any resulting mess if it is in the way.

(25) DO NOT dry tool.

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