This article was first written in 1997, so things have changed a little since then. A lot of trees have been chopped down which has allowed a lot of the crag to properly dry out for the first time in years. If you have any more information please add to this article.
These rocks are 2.5 km west of Tunbridge Wells, opposite the High Rocks Hotel. From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 to East Grinstead. After about 2km there is a left turn sign posted High Rocks. This goes over a railway bridge, after which is the car park on the right and the hotel on the left. The rocks are fenced off and admissions fee is charged by the hotel. Usually about £2 for a ticket. The continuation wall is not owned by the hotel, and its owners don't charge an admissions fee. It is not quite as pleasant as the main area but still is worth a look.
These rocks are the highest around, although never more than 12m. The outcrop is around 600 meters long, but quite inconsistent towards the eastern end. The rocks mainly face north, and have quite a lot of tree cover. Which is good on some of those rare extremely hot summer days. But after rain it takes a long time to dry out.
There are a lot of very steep, flat walls, with some extremely high grade climbing. So there is quite a number of problems left to be had. There are very few routes below 5b/c, so it is really a hard crag. Although if you like damp, awkward chimney climbs, then there is no-where better. The quality of the rock gets better the further west you go, but they are not quite as hard.
The whole crag is a Special Site of Scientific Interest, and in the past there have been attempts to stop climbers using the area. This is due to some rare polygonal markings, which get destroyed very quickly by rope burns, also there are quite a few rare lichens and mosses which need protecting. So here as much as any sandstone outcrop a long sling over the arete is essential, and abseiling and lowering off should be kept to a minimum. As there are a very limited number of bolts a static rope would be useful to set up belays.
The Turret
This is a fairly solid buttress with a couple of good, medium grade routes. Left Edge 5b takes the left side of the left face, getting harder towards the top. Turret Face 4b starts a little right trending right, to finish on the front face. It is a little hard for 4b. Drunkard's Dilemma 5b begins under the overhanging arete. Pull over the bulge on layback holds, moving left then right, finishing as turret face. Windy Wall 5a goes up the obvious crack in the front face, then traverses left on the ledges below the top to finish as turret face. Nigg Nogg Variation 5c is a variation on windy wall. It swings left from the first ledge to a sloping ramp line, then direct to the top on better holds.
The Steeple
This feature is the steep sided pinnacle on the slope in front of the main wall. The climbs are not hard, Steeple Back 3b takes the left edge. Steeple Direct 5a takes the front left arete, then traverses right to the arete. Obverse Route 4c starts right of direct, then goes up and out onto the left face up to an awkward finish. Ordinary Route 2b the right side of the steeple, its the easiest way down. Scotland Slab 1a is a couple of meters on, it follows the line of cut holds. It is only useful as a beginners route or as a feet first climb when drunk.
Battleship Nose 5b and Port Crack 4b
Battleship goes straight up the nose between two cracks. It has a tricky finish. Port crack is a nice clean crack just right of the nose, it has a constricted middle bit that pushes the climber out. The next impressive, steep wall apparently has an extremely hard climb on it. Going up to the small ledge in the middle. I have been told that it is 7a!
The First Crack 6b
This is the next quality climb, which is now in the fenced off area. It takes the fine imposing crack, starting with very hard jamming. But after that it has better holds and finishes up the wall above. Missing Link 6b(1pt) remains unrepeated. It starts in chimney A to the left. At 4m on the break traverse left to the second nose. Use a sling round a stalactite to lean out and reach over the bulge slot holds. Hard moves follow to the upper wall which is taken to the top.
A, B, C - Chimneys
These are the definitive sandstone chimneys. Anaconda Chimney 4a is a pleasant climb, best climbed facing left. Boa-Constrictor Chimney 4b is the next chimney to the right. Climb facing right and exit by going inwards and finish on the right. Between the two chimneys is Bolt Route which should be possible free, and should not be tried as an aid route as it is destroying the route. Finally the next chimney Cobra Chimney 4a.
Steps Crack 5b
This is the obvious, fine crack right of the stairs. It is a classic of the rocks. With its fine, sharp edge. It finishes left at the top. The very blunt, almost non-existent arete left of the crack is Chimera 7a it starts in the cave then traverses to the bottom of the arete, which is climbed by some kind of impossible pinching. It is the hardest climb in the south. I do not know if it has had a repeat since it was climbed 8 years ago by Dave Turner. Moving Staircase 6b starts in the cave and then follows the ramp line out right. It has a difficult, steep slab to finish.
Bell Rock
The buttress left of bell rock has Salad Days 6b on its left arete. It goes up to the ledge above some large pockets. Then moves right along the first break to make some nice moves up the long thin flake. Step left at next break to a sandy finish. Leglock 6a goes up the crack to the right, near the top it traverses left round the corner and up. Cut Steps Crack 5c is an excellent, although sadly cut, adventure. Follow the cut steps in the steep slab. At the first break traverse right to the nose, Lean over to the crack in the other wall and follow it to its end. Climb the centre of the final block to finish. It is a very wise to use two ropes on this weird route. Krankenkopf Crack 5b is a few metres right of the large passage. Follow the crack with excellent jams to the niche, then easier, wider crack to finish. It is a personal favourite of Martin Boysen. The Dragon 6a goes up the next crack. Move left and up to the inverted scoop, which has a good undercut, and there is a good hold up and right of this.
Labyrinth
This is quite a unique route. Almost all the passages behind bell and warning rocks have quite a continuous ledge about 3m from the top. This route follows the ledge and can be started and finished anywhere. Difficulty is dependent on which parts are climbed.
Warning Rock
Infidel 6a is a classic Mick Fowler masterpiece, and as thus is very hard for the grade. It starts in the inverted scoop right of the corner, and go to the break. Where you move right and stand up with difficulty. The next move is a very long reach to the next break. Go to the roof then traverse right to finish. The roof is unclimbed. Henry The Ninth 5b is hard for the grade. It follows the arete on its left side without chimneying. This means standing on the inscription to stand on the break. The next moves are easy for some and impossible for some. You have to kind of monkey up the arete by smearing, it is strenuous but fun. Jaws 5c goes up the overhanging right hand side of warning rock. Move up then go left by bridging until able to pull into the crack on the opposite wall, which is followed to the wall. This is a daring solo.
Grand Canyon
This is a good access route to the top. Marquita 5c is the first crack on the left, and is a fun jamming crack, if you like that kind of thing. Lucita 5c starts 4m right, and is a far superior climb. It traverses left into a s-shaped crack. Effie 5b takes the obvious forked crack on the left wall. The right fork is followed until its possible to go up the left. On the break traverse left and finish near the bridge. Or go right and up the crack in the overhang. It is harder than it look, not a personal choice for a solo. Cool Bananas 6c is the very difficult blunt arete left of effie.
Advertisement Wall
This is the very blank wall marked only by holes. Once used to hang advertisements for passengers on the train to see. Advertisement Wall 5b starts in the middle of the slab and goes left to the left end of the wall, using the cut holes to mantelshelf finish. The cut holes can be avoided pushing the grade to 5c. A direct start is 5c, over the bulges. Engagement Wall 6a uses the 3rd and 4th holes from the end, and finishes slightly to the right. Dyno Sore 6b uses the furthest right pair of holes.
Hut Boulder
This is a 11m high detached pinnacle that used to have a hut linking it to the main wall. All the routes are sound and quality, but not really hard. It has a bolt on top but this does not give people the right to thread the rope through the bolt. This has already made the bolt look exceptionally week, due to the deep grooves. The easiest way to the top is to solo Crack Route 4c which is a very nice climb, it follows the main crack on the front face, to pull over the top on jugs.. But if you are going to solo up please make sure you can solo back down.
Pinchgrip 5c goes technically up the impending wall 2m right of crack route. Pussyfoot 5b is the right arete of the front face. It starts in a depression on the left before moving to the arete and a short wide crack. The arete is followed to the top. Swing Face 5b is the middle of the end face, starting at some wide cracks, then moving to the middle, finish direct. The direct start is a good 5c. The arete right of swing face, also starting at the wide cracks is Birthday Arete 5b. The slanting crack on the back of the boulder is Roof Route 5a. Roofus 6b is the hardest thing on the boulder, it goes up the right side of the overhanging end. At the obvious break swing left to the center and surmount the overhang. Bludnock Wall 5c starts on the front face just before the platform. Gain the ledges at waist level, stand on the bulge, make a long reach for the next ledge and traverse off. Someone needs to put up a finish!!
The wall behind and left of the hut boulder has some impressive thin climbs. the crack on the left is 6a, then there are 3 6c's to the right, Nemesis 6c goes up past the pockets in the middle. The blunt arete to the right again is Shattered 6b.
Isolated Boulder
This has some very good climbs at most of the mid grades. As it is a boulder you have to solo to set up the rope. There are no bolts but there is a tree and some boulders. But do not abseil with the rope wrapped round something, as it will obviously damage the rock. Just solo down. The usual route up is Ordinary Route 4a which is on the face away from the main edge. It goes up to the ledge below the overhang, traverses it right, then up the wide crack. Fork, Knife, and Dinner Plate are all 5c and take the three cracks right of the tree, in there respective order. None of them involve using the tree. Simian Progress 5a is the next easiest route. It takes the crack on the right hand end of the boulder. The start is hard, direct is 5c, but a fun start is to step off a boulder to the right arete. Hand traverse along the break on good holds. Pull up onto the left side of the crack, which is followed to the top. Simian Face 5b starts as progress but goes up the wall before the crack. Monkey Nut 5b is the overhanging arete, starting on the right then direct up it, and over the bulges to finish. Simian Mistake 5c is the obvious crack on the back of the boulder. The move over the bulge is very hard for the grade. An alternative start is 2m right at 6b. The Sphinx 6a starts as simian mistake but steps left and goes over the bulges on good iron holds, moving further left is Monkey's Sphincter 6a. Past the next arete is a sharp layback, which is followed to the overhang, and passed on its left to give, North Wall 5a. The Helix 5a is a traverse of the boulder from north wall to simian progress, via the recess on ordinary route. The whole thing can be traversed at 5c.
Slab Boulder
This is quite a small boulder, with a sloping back. On the front face are a couple of nice problems. J.P.S. 6a is the left arete. Z'Mutt 5b goes up the middle and then moves right to a hard mantleshelf. A direct start is 6b. Miss Embasy 5c starts as z'mutt but goes straight up. Brenva 5c is the right arete. There is a 6b problem on the wall right of brenva.
Honeycombe 6b
This takes the steep pocketed wall. Starting left of centre it goes up for 2m then 2m right, then up on increasingly friable holds to finish. It is a very nice climb. Again this is a Mick Fowler production. The right arete is almost as good, Craig-y-blanco 6a. The arete to left of this wall is Degenerate 5a which is a good solo. Wishful Thinking 5/6b is the wall with writing on it, 5b if a running start is used.
--- Laurence
These rocks are 2.5 km west of Tunbridge Wells, opposite the High Rocks Hotel. From Tunbridge Wells take the A264 to East Grinstead. After about 2km there is a left turn sign posted High Rocks. This goes over a railway bridge, after which is the car park on the right and the hotel on the left. The rocks are fenced off and admissions fee is charged by the hotel. Usually about £2 for a ticket. The continuation wall is not owned by the hotel, and its owners don't charge an admissions fee. It is not quite as pleasant as the main area but still is worth a look.
These rocks are the highest around, although never more than 12m. The outcrop is around 600 meters long, but quite inconsistent towards the eastern end. The rocks mainly face north, and have quite a lot of tree cover. Which is good on some of those rare extremely hot summer days. But after rain it takes a long time to dry out.
There are a lot of very steep, flat walls, with some extremely high grade climbing. So there is quite a number of problems left to be had. There are very few routes below 5b/c, so it is really a hard crag. Although if you like damp, awkward chimney climbs, then there is no-where better. The quality of the rock gets better the further west you go, but they are not quite as hard.
The whole crag is a Special Site of Scientific Interest, and in the past there have been attempts to stop climbers using the area. This is due to some rare polygonal markings, which get destroyed very quickly by rope burns, also there are quite a few rare lichens and mosses which need protecting. So here as much as any sandstone outcrop a long sling over the arete is essential, and abseiling and lowering off should be kept to a minimum. As there are a very limited number of bolts a static rope would be useful to set up belays.
The Turret
This is a fairly solid buttress with a couple of good, medium grade routes. Left Edge 5b takes the left side of the left face, getting harder towards the top. Turret Face 4b starts a little right trending right, to finish on the front face. It is a little hard for 4b. Drunkard's Dilemma 5b begins under the overhanging arete. Pull over the bulge on layback holds, moving left then right, finishing as turret face. Windy Wall 5a goes up the obvious crack in the front face, then traverses left on the ledges below the top to finish as turret face. Nigg Nogg Variation 5c is a variation on windy wall. It swings left from the first ledge to a sloping ramp line, then direct to the top on better holds.
The Steeple
This feature is the steep sided pinnacle on the slope in front of the main wall. The climbs are not hard, Steeple Back 3b takes the left edge. Steeple Direct 5a takes the front left arete, then traverses right to the arete. Obverse Route 4c starts right of direct, then goes up and out onto the left face up to an awkward finish. Ordinary Route 2b the right side of the steeple, its the easiest way down. Scotland Slab 1a is a couple of meters on, it follows the line of cut holds. It is only useful as a beginners route or as a feet first climb when drunk.
Battleship Nose 5b and Port Crack 4b
Battleship goes straight up the nose between two cracks. It has a tricky finish. Port crack is a nice clean crack just right of the nose, it has a constricted middle bit that pushes the climber out. The next impressive, steep wall apparently has an extremely hard climb on it. Going up to the small ledge in the middle. I have been told that it is 7a!
The First Crack 6b
This is the next quality climb, which is now in the fenced off area. It takes the fine imposing crack, starting with very hard jamming. But after that it has better holds and finishes up the wall above. Missing Link 6b(1pt) remains unrepeated. It starts in chimney A to the left. At 4m on the break traverse left to the second nose. Use a sling round a stalactite to lean out and reach over the bulge slot holds. Hard moves follow to the upper wall which is taken to the top.
A, B, C - Chimneys
These are the definitive sandstone chimneys. Anaconda Chimney 4a is a pleasant climb, best climbed facing left. Boa-Constrictor Chimney 4b is the next chimney to the right. Climb facing right and exit by going inwards and finish on the right. Between the two chimneys is Bolt Route which should be possible free, and should not be tried as an aid route as it is destroying the route. Finally the next chimney Cobra Chimney 4a.
Steps Crack 5b
This is the obvious, fine crack right of the stairs. It is a classic of the rocks. With its fine, sharp edge. It finishes left at the top. The very blunt, almost non-existent arete left of the crack is Chimera 7a it starts in the cave then traverses to the bottom of the arete, which is climbed by some kind of impossible pinching. It is the hardest climb in the south. I do not know if it has had a repeat since it was climbed 8 years ago by Dave Turner. Moving Staircase 6b starts in the cave and then follows the ramp line out right. It has a difficult, steep slab to finish.
Bell Rock
The buttress left of bell rock has Salad Days 6b on its left arete. It goes up to the ledge above some large pockets. Then moves right along the first break to make some nice moves up the long thin flake. Step left at next break to a sandy finish. Leglock 6a goes up the crack to the right, near the top it traverses left round the corner and up. Cut Steps Crack 5c is an excellent, although sadly cut, adventure. Follow the cut steps in the steep slab. At the first break traverse right to the nose, Lean over to the crack in the other wall and follow it to its end. Climb the centre of the final block to finish. It is a very wise to use two ropes on this weird route. Krankenkopf Crack 5b is a few metres right of the large passage. Follow the crack with excellent jams to the niche, then easier, wider crack to finish. It is a personal favourite of Martin Boysen. The Dragon 6a goes up the next crack. Move left and up to the inverted scoop, which has a good undercut, and there is a good hold up and right of this.
Labyrinth
This is quite a unique route. Almost all the passages behind bell and warning rocks have quite a continuous ledge about 3m from the top. This route follows the ledge and can be started and finished anywhere. Difficulty is dependent on which parts are climbed.
Warning Rock
Infidel 6a is a classic Mick Fowler masterpiece, and as thus is very hard for the grade. It starts in the inverted scoop right of the corner, and go to the break. Where you move right and stand up with difficulty. The next move is a very long reach to the next break. Go to the roof then traverse right to finish. The roof is unclimbed. Henry The Ninth 5b is hard for the grade. It follows the arete on its left side without chimneying. This means standing on the inscription to stand on the break. The next moves are easy for some and impossible for some. You have to kind of monkey up the arete by smearing, it is strenuous but fun. Jaws 5c goes up the overhanging right hand side of warning rock. Move up then go left by bridging until able to pull into the crack on the opposite wall, which is followed to the wall. This is a daring solo.
Grand Canyon
This is a good access route to the top. Marquita 5c is the first crack on the left, and is a fun jamming crack, if you like that kind of thing. Lucita 5c starts 4m right, and is a far superior climb. It traverses left into a s-shaped crack. Effie 5b takes the obvious forked crack on the left wall. The right fork is followed until its possible to go up the left. On the break traverse left and finish near the bridge. Or go right and up the crack in the overhang. It is harder than it look, not a personal choice for a solo. Cool Bananas 6c is the very difficult blunt arete left of effie.
Advertisement Wall
This is the very blank wall marked only by holes. Once used to hang advertisements for passengers on the train to see. Advertisement Wall 5b starts in the middle of the slab and goes left to the left end of the wall, using the cut holes to mantelshelf finish. The cut holes can be avoided pushing the grade to 5c. A direct start is 5c, over the bulges. Engagement Wall 6a uses the 3rd and 4th holes from the end, and finishes slightly to the right. Dyno Sore 6b uses the furthest right pair of holes.
Hut Boulder
This is a 11m high detached pinnacle that used to have a hut linking it to the main wall. All the routes are sound and quality, but not really hard. It has a bolt on top but this does not give people the right to thread the rope through the bolt. This has already made the bolt look exceptionally week, due to the deep grooves. The easiest way to the top is to solo Crack Route 4c which is a very nice climb, it follows the main crack on the front face, to pull over the top on jugs.. But if you are going to solo up please make sure you can solo back down.
Pinchgrip 5c goes technically up the impending wall 2m right of crack route. Pussyfoot 5b is the right arete of the front face. It starts in a depression on the left before moving to the arete and a short wide crack. The arete is followed to the top. Swing Face 5b is the middle of the end face, starting at some wide cracks, then moving to the middle, finish direct. The direct start is a good 5c. The arete right of swing face, also starting at the wide cracks is Birthday Arete 5b. The slanting crack on the back of the boulder is Roof Route 5a. Roofus 6b is the hardest thing on the boulder, it goes up the right side of the overhanging end. At the obvious break swing left to the center and surmount the overhang. Bludnock Wall 5c starts on the front face just before the platform. Gain the ledges at waist level, stand on the bulge, make a long reach for the next ledge and traverse off. Someone needs to put up a finish!!
The wall behind and left of the hut boulder has some impressive thin climbs. the crack on the left is 6a, then there are 3 6c's to the right, Nemesis 6c goes up past the pockets in the middle. The blunt arete to the right again is Shattered 6b.
Isolated Boulder
This has some very good climbs at most of the mid grades. As it is a boulder you have to solo to set up the rope. There are no bolts but there is a tree and some boulders. But do not abseil with the rope wrapped round something, as it will obviously damage the rock. Just solo down. The usual route up is Ordinary Route 4a which is on the face away from the main edge. It goes up to the ledge below the overhang, traverses it right, then up the wide crack. Fork, Knife, and Dinner Plate are all 5c and take the three cracks right of the tree, in there respective order. None of them involve using the tree. Simian Progress 5a is the next easiest route. It takes the crack on the right hand end of the boulder. The start is hard, direct is 5c, but a fun start is to step off a boulder to the right arete. Hand traverse along the break on good holds. Pull up onto the left side of the crack, which is followed to the top. Simian Face 5b starts as progress but goes up the wall before the crack. Monkey Nut 5b is the overhanging arete, starting on the right then direct up it, and over the bulges to finish. Simian Mistake 5c is the obvious crack on the back of the boulder. The move over the bulge is very hard for the grade. An alternative start is 2m right at 6b. The Sphinx 6a starts as simian mistake but steps left and goes over the bulges on good iron holds, moving further left is Monkey's Sphincter 6a. Past the next arete is a sharp layback, which is followed to the overhang, and passed on its left to give, North Wall 5a. The Helix 5a is a traverse of the boulder from north wall to simian progress, via the recess on ordinary route. The whole thing can be traversed at 5c.
Slab Boulder
This is quite a small boulder, with a sloping back. On the front face are a couple of nice problems. J.P.S. 6a is the left arete. Z'Mutt 5b goes up the middle and then moves right to a hard mantleshelf. A direct start is 6b. Miss Embasy 5c starts as z'mutt but goes straight up. Brenva 5c is the right arete. There is a 6b problem on the wall right of brenva.
Honeycombe 6b
This takes the steep pocketed wall. Starting left of centre it goes up for 2m then 2m right, then up on increasingly friable holds to finish. It is a very nice climb. Again this is a Mick Fowler production. The right arete is almost as good, Craig-y-blanco 6a. The arete to left of this wall is Degenerate 5a which is a good solo. Wishful Thinking 5/6b is the wall with writing on it, 5b if a running start is used.
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