Rock Type : Gabbro, bit of basalt, smidgen of limestone.
Access : From the south the best approach is towards Fort William via Glencoe, then take the ferry across Loch Linnhe. From here you can follow a main road to Salen, then Glenborrodale, then Kilchoan, then finally Sanna. You do not need to go all the way to Sanna, but if you are trying to get piece and quiet, then it should be far enough.
Comments : Ardnamurchan is the most westerly point of mainland Britain. From here there are brilliant views of egg, rum, and mull. The rock has formed from a very old volcano. Thus they are in a large ring. The rock has more friction than any other I have encountered, it is almost like velcro.The climbing is quite out of the way. But there are still places to stay and there is even a petrol pump in Kilchoan!
The majority of the rock is of little interest to the climber, It is simply domes and very easy slabs. But when the rock does rise steeply, it gives very enjoyable climbing. Even in the wet the friction is not bad. There is some huge Limestone cliffs north of Achnaha, and Sgurr nan Gabhar, pictured at bottom. Apparently there are some excellent lines on them.
The ring dyke crags (formed from the old volcano) should be avoided or approached with care from April to August. This is due to a number of rare and protected bird species nesting here. Also there is deer stalking from October to February, thus the estate land will be restricted, which includes most of the ring dyke crags. You can enquire at the estate offices for more detailed dates.
Best Routes :
- Return of the Jedi, E3 5c. Meall an Fhir-eoin Bearg (482 699).
- Crater Comforts, VS 4c 4c. Meall an Fhir-eoin Bearg (482 699). Varied.
- Coal Mining, VS 5a. Achnaha Buttress (461 697). Excellent crack.
- High Plains Drifter, VS 5a. Sgurr nan Gabhar (470 698). Brilliant central crack. Pictured right.
Guide Book : New rock and ice SMC Glencoe guide
Local Facilities : Almost everything is available in Kilchoan. Campsite, shop, petrol, etc...
--- LaurenceAccess : From the south the best approach is towards Fort William via Glencoe, then take the ferry across Loch Linnhe. From here you can follow a main road to Salen, then Glenborrodale, then Kilchoan, then finally Sanna. You do not need to go all the way to Sanna, but if you are trying to get piece and quiet, then it should be far enough.
Comments : Ardnamurchan is the most westerly point of mainland Britain. From here there are brilliant views of egg, rum, and mull. The rock has formed from a very old volcano. Thus they are in a large ring. The rock has more friction than any other I have encountered, it is almost like velcro.The climbing is quite out of the way. But there are still places to stay and there is even a petrol pump in Kilchoan!
The majority of the rock is of little interest to the climber, It is simply domes and very easy slabs. But when the rock does rise steeply, it gives very enjoyable climbing. Even in the wet the friction is not bad. There is some huge Limestone cliffs north of Achnaha, and Sgurr nan Gabhar, pictured at bottom. Apparently there are some excellent lines on them.
The ring dyke crags (formed from the old volcano) should be avoided or approached with care from April to August. This is due to a number of rare and protected bird species nesting here. Also there is deer stalking from October to February, thus the estate land will be restricted, which includes most of the ring dyke crags. You can enquire at the estate offices for more detailed dates.
Best Routes :
- Return of the Jedi, E3 5c. Meall an Fhir-eoin Bearg (482 699).
- Crater Comforts, VS 4c 4c. Meall an Fhir-eoin Bearg (482 699). Varied.
- Coal Mining, VS 5a. Achnaha Buttress (461 697). Excellent crack.
- High Plains Drifter, VS 5a. Sgurr nan Gabhar (470 698). Brilliant central crack. Pictured right.
Guide Book : New rock and ice SMC Glencoe guide
Local Facilities : Almost everything is available in Kilchoan. Campsite, shop, petrol, etc...
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