HARRISON'S ROCKS
The rocks are situated about 1.5 km south of Groombridge. They are approached by heading south from Groombridge, passing the old station on the left. At the first fork go right and after 200 metres turn right again. A car park is soon reached, beyond which vehicles are not allowed. There is a donations box at the exit, which goes towards maintenance of the toilets, car park and rocks. The best access route leaves the opposite corner of the car park from the entrance. It is often muddy but does end up at the end of the rocks.
Harrison's remains the most popular southern sandstone crag, and has the most climbs. The number of climbs per square meter is probably the most in the country. As it is so popular erosion is a major problem. Thanks mainly to Terry and Chris Tullis the area has been matted and all the loose boulders at the top have been removed. Thus stopping the ground disappearing down the hill. The westerly aspect of the crag does allow it to catch the sun and dry out quite quickly. All the routes are bolted, and thus there is no reason for the rope to be running over the edge. The amount of concrete on the tops of some climbs are a monument of some peoples stupidity and laziness in not hanging the rope over the edge. Abseiling is strictly banned, and if caught doing so you will be shouted at. Lowering off is an equally bad crime. No aid climbing or trad climbing or dry ice climbing is allowed. Chalk is also becoming a problem, and using it could promote locals to shout at you.
This has a number of good problems. The best is probably up the fluting in the middle of the front face at easy 5c. The middle of the left wall is also good, using a large undercut, at 5b. The main overhanging nose can be ascended in a couple of ways, all around 6a/b.
Eyelet Wall
This section is great, with very sound rock, and not a bad landing.
Having said that, I did fall off eyelet, which was not expected, but there was an unusual amount of sand on the top. Due to the lack of a rope, and my spotter who was complaining about sand in his eyes, I fell onto the slab, one foot on, one foot off. This resulted in a rather dramatic tumble all the way down to the main path.
It is fairly small so they are frequently soloed. "Eyelet 4a" follows the crack up the overhanging wall. "Ringlet 5b" starts as for eyelet but moves across to the arete.
Blackeye Wall
"Trip of the psychedelic tortoise 6a" is the overhang on the left. It is extremely important the krab is over the edge. "Carrera 5c" takes the small wall left of the chimney. It is a very good understated climb, done without touching the other side of the chimney. "Root Route 1.5 5b" takes a line straight up, starting at the deep pocket about 2 foot off the ground. The first move off a very sloapy first hold can be amusing. As the hold at the back of the crack is often hard to reach and see.
Sliding Corner 5b
Start in the chimney right of the buttress, go up then left on quite awkwardly placed holds. It is easy to locate due to the large rotten tree stump at the top.
Luncheon Shelf
"Slab Direct 4c" takes a direct line up the middle of the slab left of luncheon shelf. Quite an unusual climb for sandstone. The crack to the right is "Slab Crack 5b" which rarely dries and is thus quite impossible. "Lager Frenzy 6c" takes the cracks in the centre of the wall on the right. move left then slightly right to finish. "Hangover III 6a" is one of the flashiest climbs around. It starts under the overhang on the right, a large move goes up to a side pull. Once the break below the lip is reached, move left to the centre of the lip then pull over. Finish straight up. "Long Layback 5a" takes the next crack, it is not a personal favourite, but is fairly popular. "Flakes 6a" pulls into the niche left of the crack, then hand traverses left along the break to finish up the leaning crack. "Flakes Direct 6a" is a better line up the crack, both are classics.
Pelmet Wall
The blunt arete to the left goes at "Nut Tree 6b" and is quite a delicate proposition. The next thin crack is a quality climb that doesn't get too much traffic, "Spout Buttress 5c". "Pelmet 5b" is a classic, it goes up the pedestal in the middle of the wall, then traverses left on the huge crescent flake then up to finish up the jamming crack, there is a direct start called "Casement Wall 5b". "Bow Window 3b" is a nice outing, going up right off the pedestal. "Finger Stain 5c" is a good route up the bulging wall left of the next crack. "Sashcord Crack 4a" is that next crack using the potholes either side.
Slim Finger Crack Wall
The arete on the left has "Archers Wall Direct 5c" going straight up over the overhang. A very nice route quite high in the grade. "Stupid Effort 5b" is named well. It goes up to the niche left of the arete, it is worth climbing purely for the interesting move switching hands in the niche. The crack is "Long Crack 4b" but can be quite unpleasant. "What Crisis? 6c" takes the wall directly past the pot hole, that used to be an aid placement. It is a sick hard climb. "Slimfinger Crack 5c" is the next crack, it is quite technical but very rewarding, it was the hardest climb in the country when it was climbed. The next crack is also worth doing "Vulture Crack 5c".
Circle Climbs
"Right circle 4a" is the crack on the right using a large jug to start. The left crack is "Left Circle 6a". The small wall between the cracks is "Take That Effing Chalk Bag Off, Or I'll Nick Your Rope And Give It To Terry "The Chainsaw" Tullis And He'll Keep It For Ever And Ever". The right arete is "Good Friday 5c" and worth doing.
Fallen Tree
The gully on the left has a climb chimneying up the right of the boulder, "St. Gotthard 4a".
Wellington's Block
This is one of the tallest walls here and has some quality routes on it. Starting on the right of the left arete, to a ledge, then traversing to the middle of the left wall. Then up the crack and underclings to the top is the excellent, "Foresters Wall 5b". Using the same start but heading left over the bulges is "Bonanza 5c". "The Republic 6b" follows the right arete on good holds, moving slightly right on the top ledge to finish. "The Niblick 5b" is the best climb here. It simply follows the lay away cracks on the front face, it is high in the grade. A very daring solo, as the landing is terrible. "Wellington's Nose 3b" chimneys up the left side and finishes on the block.
Squat Tower
The crack in the middle of the wall 10 meters left of the tower is "Deadwood crack 4c" a good solo as the crux s low down. On the tower itself is "The Vice 4c", "Toevice 6a", and "Handvice 6a", the three cracks from left to right.
Set Square Arete 5b
Simply straight up the arete with some quite ugly moves, worth it just to get a feel of extremely rounded sandstone finishes. The boulder to the left has a couple of interesting problems, especially on the left arete. 5 meters right from the set square is a crescent overlap, "The Mank 6a" takes it and is very nice. The next crack is "Piecemeal Wall 5c" which goes right at the first break then a long way left to finish up the niche.
This has some of the longest and finest climbs in the region. "North West Corner 5c" takes the left arete, the move up to the last holds is very cool. Just round the back, left of north west, is "Green Fingers 5c" which uses very small sharp holds. On the main wall just left of the buttress is "Two Toed Sloth 5a" which involves a sort of dyno to reach the jugs. Then finish however. Back on the buttress in the middle of the wall, right of north west is "Woolly Bear 6c" which is getting harder as the holds keep breaking. The next arete has two climbs, "South West Corner 6a" that finishes direct using an undercut, and "West Wall 5c" that traverses left from the overhang to finish on the large flake in the middle of the wall. "Isolated Buttress Climb 4c" starts under the overhang and moves right to the crack then up to the overhang round it on the right. "Edwards Effort 6a" takes the next crack starting in the niche, it finishes direct or the crack on the right. "Diversion 5c" goes up the right of the niche, moves right from the second break, to make a hard move to a hidden jug, finish up the crack. "Birchden Wall 5b" is at the top of its grade. It starts 2 meters left of the right arete on the front face, in a shallow groove, and goes direct to the top chimney. "Birchden Corner 5c" is low in the grade, go direct up the right arete, then move left then right to finish. "Crowborough Corner 5c" takes the crack right of the arete, at the top of the crack a hard move is made left on a small sidepull to stand on the arete, finish straight up. "Wailing Wall 5c" takes the crack in the middle of the steep wall, it is high in the grade. But very good. "Boysen's Arete 6a" is a nice technical problem up under the boulder. Finally "Boulder Bridge Route 2b" is simply chimneying up the back passage.
Spider Wall
Often missed out and simply walked by, these routes are very quality. "Cave and Crack 4a" takes the crack at the far right, the cave disappeared a while ago. "Cave Wall 5b" takes the arete left of cave crack. Finishing either over the final bulge or left to spider wall. "Spider Wall 5b" takes the crack on the left. "Last Chance 5c" takes the next crack, with nice moves between rounded breaks. The next crack is very tricky in the wet "Second Chance 6a", and can take a lot of skin off the hands on the first move. The next flat wall right of spider wall has "Grants Crack 5a" up the widest crack, with some good jamming. The groove to the left is "Grants Groove 6a" which is very nice but only if it is 100% dry.
Garden Slab
This wall has a couple of noteworthy routes, "Garden Slab Right 5a" starting on a block a meter right of the arete. Go straight up trending slightly right at the top to finish. The arete is "Biceps Buttress 5c" which simply goes straight, with a tricky move over the top.
Unclimbed Wall
This is almost always in condition. On the right side of the small buttress to the left, next to the large overhang, is "Hell Wall 5a" which is getting harder but is an excellent solo. 2 meters right of the chimney, is "Far Left 5c" it goes straight up finishing left of a small crack at the top. 2 meters further along is "Elementary 5c" which goes straight up the cracks then slightly right. The move off the top of the cracks is often tricky. "Desperate Dan 6a" is a meter right again, going right past a side pull at about 2.5 meters. Finishes left of a small circular hole. It is a very good, quite challenging route. "Unclimbed Wall 5b" is next, it goes up using the potholes to the ledge, then right, and a rockover allows the next crack to be reached. Finish with the large iron holds. "Unclimbed Wall Direct Start", and "Unclimbed Wall Direct Finish" are 5c and 6a. The start follows the laybacks and is excellent. The finish goes straight up left of the niche in the roof of the break, using a micro ledge. "Right Unclimbed 6a" goes up the next crack. The next arete is "Bulging Arete / Zig-Zag Nose 5c" which is another superb climb. The wall to the left is "Solstice 5c" and the wall to the left is "Zig Zag 5a". 3 meters right is the last good climb, "Rift 5c",which goes up over an undercut start,past some monster pinches. The line just to the left of the next major crack goes at 5c. It is very good, apart from an awkward top, and deserves a name, and a few stars.