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Topos and info
supplied
by Eugene JonesFont
Grades |
| The climbing below Ogmore By Sea including the Trench is more like
gritstone then limestone, with many problems following features such as scoops, grooves and
arêtes on sloping holds and smears but without the friction of the grit "up North". Hence static power and poise are required for success. Don't be conned by the easy looking nature of some of the problems encountered, the sea polished nature of the rock adds at least a grade to the gritstone like features. Have you ever tried to layback an arete on rock where the surface feels it has as much friction as damp slate? Also beware, copious amounts of chalk can be a disadvantage rather than an advantage. However, landings are generally very good, deep soft sand can break your fall as good any bouldering mat and hence a car mat (to keep your feet dry) and a rag are the tools required. It is also advantageous to use a Blow Torch to dry out holds when climbing in the winter, but don't worry its use will not polish the rock because of the water borne sand blasting the problems get twice a day. |
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Furthermore don't get despondent if you make a repeat visit to the area only to find that you just cannot get off the ground. The height of the sand relative to the problem can vary enormously and with it the grade, some problems particularly those with sit down starts can even become impossible, so chill out and savour the challenge if you find yourself getting nowhere. |
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HARDY'S BAY
Areas 3 & 4
1. Low Traverse 6b
2. Roof. Low Start 5+
3. Greenbeard, Roof 6a
4. Wall 7a
5. Wall 6a
6. Rounded Break, Traverse 6b
7. The Tube, Groove 6b
8. Slight Arête 6a
9. Hand Traverse up 5+
10. Hanging Arête 6a
11. Groove 5+
12. Roof -> Groove 4
13. Roof -> Wall 5+
14. Roof -> Arête 5
14a. The Cutter 6c+
15. Arête -> Dyno 6a
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The Trench
East Wall -- Area
6 |
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1. Bulge 5+
2. Arête, Bold F4+
3. Roof -> Groove, Bold F4+
4. Roof -> Wall, Bold F4
5. Roof -> Crack F4
6. Fingery Wall F4+
7. Finger Traverse F5+ |
8. Fingery, Via Undercut F5+
9. Fingery Again F5+
10. From Layback. Traverse back along 7 F6a
11.Layback, Sitting Start
12. Arête F6c
13.Rib F6c
14.Layaway -> Flake F5+
15.Layback -> Lunge F5+ |
16. Layback -> Rockover to Sloper F6a
17. Direct, Sitting Start F7b+/7c
18. Way Down or Up English, 4a
19.Ribs -> Layaway F6a
20. Dartford Runnel F5 (Without
Footledge F6a)
21.Layback Crack F6a+
22.Arête F6b
23. Rockover/Dyno F4
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Deep Water Soloing Ogmore Stylee |
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