Boulder Guide --- Glen Nevis Boulders

Cameron Stone and Heather Hat can be seen just past the lower falls, as you drive up the Glen. The lower falls are 100yds past a white croft (on the right) & on a sharp zig-zag. The boulders start along a bit from the falls & up on the left. They then carry on in a staggered fashion for about quarter of a mile. From Heather Hat boulder look high & left for a skull shaped feature (see right). This is High Crag, part of the Polldubh collection of buttresses.

The rock here is the same, solid clean rock, same as the rest of Polldubh. After rain there is a slight problem with drainage, and the base of some of the problems do become marsh. But when in condition it can be a very good venue, with some very hard problems. All problems climbed by Si unless stated otherwise.


Heather Hat Boulder 12. Maizie Gunn’s Magic Midgie Cream 6b, Font 7b : The R roof from the back on pinches & slopes. 13. Pagan Uilleann 6b, Font 7b : The L roof direct from the back on desperate undercuts & slopes. 14. Midnight in a Perfect World 6a/b, Font 7b : A hanging lip traverse of the roof groove starting from 13 to go L-R-L. 15. Bright Size Life 6c+, Font 7b+ : The dusty R-ward steepness. Get into the cave to start on crimps then desperately through to a mantel. Has quite a nautical feel after rain. Should be called Bathtime. 16. 5c, Font 6+ : The bulge directly R of this. : The bulge directly R of this. 17. 6c ? Font ? : Cross the roof to reach the green wall (needs cleaning) then this via a shallow mono to crimps above.
Cameron Stone 1. Jazzamataz 5c, Font 6a : The low but steep sloping ledge from roof cuts into the jug & ramp above. 2. 5b, Font 5+ : Low start the shelf into a hand crack & ramp; finish above. 3. A Dram for Donald 6a, Font 6b : The ledge & crimps R-ward into sidepulls & a mantel finish. 4. The News in Pidgin Gaelic for White Settlers 6c/7a, Font 7b/c : Low roof start onto a large undercut, then desperately through the superb, steep wall on crimps. 5. SL 9-Jupiter Collision 7a/b, Font 8a : Low roof start into a desperate side-slope & a powerful dyno for the arete jug. Finish above. Success seems as dependant on your hair style as much as anything else. 6. Shifting Sands 6c, Font 7b+ : Layback desperately up the arete on horrendous finger slopes. 7. Cath 6b/c Font 7a : Low roof start on poor edges to a lip hold then R into the sidepulls of 8. 8. Woolly Jumper 5b, Font 6+ : The juggy sidepulls direct into the obvious R-trending crackline. 9. 5c+, Font 6+ : The corner & modest roof direct from a low sidepull. 10. Stepping in Silence 6c/7a, Font 7c+ : Low traverse steeply R-L-R from 1-8-1-8. Quite grueling. (pic ->) 10a. No Guru (v) 7a, Font 7c : A variation on the last, traversing L again, to pull into ShiftingSands & finishing up this. 11. Riding an Asteroid 6a/b, Font 6c : As 10, but higher using the top & sloping lip.

Heart Stone
1. Shorelines 5b, Font 5+, 5m : The excellent centre of the delicate slab direct. AMc
2. Diff, 4b, 5m : The worthy crack & slab direct. AMc
3. 4c : The rounded arete.
4. The Morrighan 7a/b, Font 8a(+), 5m : A steep roof traverse L into a desperate overhang on micro-edges to reach an amusing finish into a ramp & cracked block above.
4a. Nexus 6 (v) Font 8b : From roof cuts R, traverse low & L onto the main wall, reversing by a block, then desperately up & back R across the face to gain the arete.
5. 5c, Font 6a : Surprisingly the slab into a short headwall & crack is harder than the 4c it looks.
Standing Stone
6. Hamish 6b, Font 7a : The smooth L wall sports a small undercut. Use this & cunning to hit the top.
7. 5b, Font 5+ : Surmount this excellent looking stone at the nose.
8. A few good easy slab problems 3+ - 4b exist on the R side of this stone.